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; clad in the sweet simplicity of a little strip of skin tied round the middle。 Even here; however; the female love of ornament was in evidence; for the hair of the women was elaborately arranged and powdered with some metal that caused it to glitter and gave it a blue tinge。 Our hut was very superior to that built by the Zulus。 It stood in a reed…hedged courtyard which was floored with limestone concrete。 Also it had a verandah round it。 The interior walls were painted with red ochre in lines and spirals something after the old Greek fashion。 Indeed; these Basutos gave me the idea that they were sprung from some race with a considerable knowledge of civilisation and its arts。 In other ways; however; they had quite relapsed into barbarism。 Thus; as we entered the town about a hundred women returned from labouring in the fields; stripped themselves stark naked before us; and proceeded to wash in a stream — though I observe that they did this “in a modest kind of way。” I should add that at this time very few white men had ever passed the gates of Secocoeni’s Town。

It was an uncanny kind of place。 If you got up at night; if you moved anywhere; you became aware that dozens or hundreds of eyes were watching you。 Privacy was impossible。 You ate; too; in public。 The chief sent down a sheep。 You saw it living; next you saw it more or less cooked and held before you in quarters on sticks by kneeling natives。 You cut off chunks with your knife; ate what you liked or; rather; what you must; and threw the rest to other natives who stood round staring; among them the heir…apparent to the chieftainship。 These caught the pieces as a dog does; and gobbled them down like a dog。

On the morning following our arrival; after a night so hot that sleep was almost impossible 

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