第47部分 (第6/7頁)
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tore the hooks off the Phantoms and brass “devils;” or smashed the tackle; but we caught many up to about four pounds in weight。 Indeed; the sport was so easy that one grew weary of it。 Very charming it was also to stand alone in the blue light at midnight by the banks; or in the water of the wide and brawling salmon river; casting for and sometimes hooking the king of fish。 Never shall I forget the impression it produced upon me。 The mighty black mountains; the solitude; the song of the river; and the whistling flight of the wild duck — by which the silence alone was broken — and; over all; that low unearthly light just strong enough to show my fly upon the water and the boiling rises of the salmon。 It is an experience which I am glad to have known。
At Rejkjavik; for some reason that I have forgotten; we caught not the Danish mail steamer as we had expected; but our old friend the Copeland; now laden with hundreds of ponies; among them that named Hecla; which I had bought near the volcano; and I think another which I had also bought。 We went aboard the night of the 19th with General Bevan…Edwards and some other passengers; and I recall observing with some anxiety the ship’s agent as he rowed round the bows of the vessel; apparently inspecting her draught — also with some anxiety。
I imagine that she had too many ponies in her holds。 However; off we steamed; and soon the coast of Iceland vanished behind us。 It is a country to which I was very sorry to bid farewell; though I think one only to be appreciated (if we leave fishermen out of the question) by those who have made a study of the sagas。 I know not what may now be the case; but at that time these were few indeed。 I believe that the enterprising American who found; or was said to have found; a gold rin